The Teeth

 

Dr Mc Blog

April 22, 2015
What’s a subject you can sink your teeth into? Dentistry! (oh, go ahead and smile. Ha! Your teeth are showing!). Puppies are born “gumming it” and gradually little nubs of baby teeth come in. Baby teeth are correctly called “deciduous” teeth, which I find hilarious because there are deciduous TREES that lose their leaves every fall, like an oak or a maple, and who compares losing a body part with the tree in their front yard?

By 6 weeks of age most puppy teeth, all 28, have fully erupted and are quite sharp. Teeth are valuable for ageing a young puppy. The first deciduous incisors fall out around 4 months of age, the canine or fang teeth at 6 months of age. Most dogs have all 42 of their adult teeth by 8 months of age. Whew- no wonder they teethe on shoes and garden hoses! Exceptions to this rule are every Yorkie on the planet and a few other super teensy breeds who prefer the “delayed dental eruption” plan, their personal dental plan wherein they often refuse to lose ANY baby teeth naturally. These retained or leftover baby teeth must be pulled later under anesthesia. Two sets of teeth may seem kind of crocodile-cute, but the reality is that they will entrap food and eventually rot out both baby and adult teeth. We’re talking real health issues here, so much more than a pretty smile.

Dogs use their teeth like we use our fingers – teeth are their primary tool for prehension, picking up, grabbing, testing, tasting things. Teeth keep the tongue firmly seated in the mouth, instead of hanging out. Teeth, by the simple act of chewing, keep the jawbone firm and strong – without teeth the bone will lose density and atrophy, maybe fracture. Not too long ago dentures were very common amongst our grandparents and we spoke of “gumming it” and how the dentures didn’t fit well – due to lose of bone density. Dentures aren’t an option for our pets. Teeth, of course, help our pets to eat. A service dogs’ teeth may be used to apprehend a criminal or to gently tug a handicapped person into a position of safety.

One big difference for a pet versus a person in the world of dentistry is the rather sad fact that when a puppy loses its baby teeth, it only needs care for its adult teeth for 14 or 15 years, on average – in a human, we are expected to make ours last 80 years or so. I’m not sure ours are constructed any better. But it does explain the emphasis people place on twice yearly teeth cleanings, daily brushing and flossing. Did you know that we recommend daily brushing of your dogs’ teeth? Annual cleaning would be awesome.

When your veterinarian gazes at your dogs’ mouth and politely recommends a dental cleaning, is it just to bring back a whiter smile? Probably not, though whisking away the brown moss and calculus covering those teeth would make everyone happier. All teeth start out covered in white enamel. The salivary glands empty over the back teeth, providing gentle lubrication of the gums and lips and even a small amount of enzymes to start food digestion. Anyplace that you have moisture will attract bacteria, and it is bacteria, living on the sugars from food, that leaves that soft yellow build-up on the teeth called plaque. Thousands of bacteria are piling up on your pets teeth right now! Plaque can be removed with a toothbrush. Toothpastes are formulated just for pets, in flavors they like (think chicken or salmon), fluoride added because this helps kill the bacteria that causes plaque, and without the detergents that make our toothpaste foam up (look – it must be working!) but might irritate a dogs sensitive stomach if swallowed. Brushing your dogs’ teeth daily is well worth it.

Over time plaque mineralizes and turns brown. This hard brown stuff is called “calculus” and must be scraped off – but wait a minute before you reach for your pliers or allow some unlicensed person to “clean” your dogs’ teeth. As you scrape and wrench inside your dogs’ mouth, you literally gouge the enamel, leaving deep ruts that bacteria settle into even more rapidly, and yes, you have just assured a Fast-Track pass to faster decay and damage. The ultrasonic scaler used by veterinarians and dentists alike is safe and effective at removing plaque and calculus. Any micro-abrasions created on the teeth surface are then smoothed out by the polishing afterwards (and you thought it was just foo-foo stuff to make them shine! Silly you).

I used to be more polite. I might look in a mouth and say a tooth was mobile. I’m not sure what people thought – I wanted to test drive it to see how it handled corners? I’ve dropped that approach. Now I just say their dogs’ teeth are rotting in their head. That sparks a little interest. If the dog cooperates, I like to put everything on full display. All dogs should have teeth. Their importance to the body’s over-all health is often underestimated. In just the last two weeks I have cared for several interesting, though not unusual, cases. I had an older Poodle whose upper fang tooth abscessed. The base of that tooth rests against the thin plate of bone that separates the nose from the mouth. When the root rotted so did the bone. Now there was a hole or oro-nasal fistula present. Imagine sucking bits of food and water up your nose every time you ate. Oral surgery was required to fix the problem. A Dachshund presented with a fat swelling below her left eye, not an eye problem, no sir, but an abscessed big premolar leaking into the sinus below the eyeball. A major tooth extraction and antibiotics fixed that. A 3 month old Queensland pup has a baby tooth in his lower jaw erupting inwards : when he closes his mouth the incorrectly placed tooth is literally poking a hole into the roof of his mouth. Ouch! We’re contemplating interceptive orthodontics. And these were very ordinary cases, expected in an ordinary week. Teeth are meant to last time a life time – with proper care.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
drmc@mcmenagerie.com
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced

Pretzel and the Dislocating Knee

 

Dr Mc Blog

April 7, 2015
“Call me Pretzel”, the note said. I peered over the top of it to look at my patient. She was aptly named, wriggling and dancing on the exam table, tongue flashing as she air kissed in happy anticipation of meeting me. “Well, alright then! Pleased to meet you, Pretzel!” I greeted her. With a surge of energy she tried to jump towards me and instead collapsed in a heap as her back leg buckled under her. I righted her with one hand and glanced at her chart again. “Sometimes lame” it read.

I looked again at Pretzel, a little toy breed dog weighing less than 10 pounds. She was just over 1 year of age. Her owner reported that although her little dog usually ran around happily, recently she had noticed that sometimes she picked up one of her back legs when running, or might kick it out behind her then resume her pace. Pretzel didn’t like to jump as much as she used to, and occasionally gave a little cry when landing on her rear legs. As I examined her, I gently pressed on her tiny kneecaps, or patella’s, and felt the right kneecap slip out of place, bumping over the groove at the bottom of the upper thigh bone, the femur, that was supposed to hold it in place. The kneecap slid to the inside of her leg – but as soon as I straightened the leg, it popped back into place. Diagnosis : Luxating patella, also called a dislocating kneecap.

Dislocating kneecaps are very common in many toy breeds. In some breeds it is estimated that over 50% of all puppies are so afflicted, a hereditary predisposition that is evident by a year of age or sooner. Some people believe that as these toy breeds are bred for ever smaller “extreme” sizes more anatomical problems crop up. Certainly these dogs were bred for looks, as lap companions and not as “working dogs” –  attention to strong teeth, big muscles and performance were not a first priority.

The knee of a dog is an interesting joint, being very similar to that of a human in general construction. Kind of bony, it is held together by tendons and ligaments, without much muscle to cover and protect it. Hard working, it must flex and bend with every step taken, as the entire backside of the body is supported on it. So can you picture all this? The big heavy femur with this small sliding patellar bone-and-ligament-show that connects and allows bending when attached to the lower tibia/calf bone. What keeps the patella in place? It is supposed to be nestled deep in the valley of the femoral groove, and helped to stay there by being firmly attached in a straight line to the bony ridge of the tibial crest below it.

In toy breeds, the femoral groove is often formed FLAT. Imagine! With nothing to cup it, the patella is at the mercy of the inner pull of the thigh muscles and off it goes, dislocating sideways towards the inside of the knee. Because the dog was born that way, it doesn’t know that that’s not the way it should be; truthfully, although they walk a little oddly, most young dogs don’t show serious discomfort. But as the patella bobs back and forth over the rim of the distal femur, it rubs ever so slightly, just a touch of friction….and eventually arthritis. At first just a little breakdown of the cartilage covering the bone. Over time, as year pass, from an erosion of the cartilage little pits and bumps appear and the knee becomes more painful. Eventually some dogs become so crippled they can no longer use the leg at all. Surgery is too late by then.

Pretzel, happily, was young and could benefit greatly from corrective surgery. It was easy to recommend it – all the telltale signs were there, from the hard pop when her knee dislocated (painful!) to the changes in activity her owner recognized at home. After x-rays to be certain she had no other orthopedic problems that might affect the outcome and to document the flattened femoral groove, she was taken to surgery – there is no other remedy for such a knee – and her knee rebuilt. A new groove was fashioned deep into the femur and the surrounding joint capsule and ligaments were tightened to hold it in place while healing. Although Pretzel’s leg was straight, in some crooked-legged breeds the tibial crest will also be transplanted.

In case you’re wondering, large breed dogs also can develop dislocating knees, though for most it is caused by some kind of accident or trauma. Surgery is always a necessity in these cases.

During surgery we looked at her original bone, where a thin line of angry red could be seen on the inside rim where Pretzel’s patella had been rubbing as it popped back and forth. We couldn’t undo that damage, but we could stop it right there, and with no further rubbing there was a good chance she would have minimal arthritis in that joint as she aged. Once the groove was deepened, the kneecap sat firmly in place! Pretzel awakened to a fully functional knee for the first time in her life. Helped by anti-inflammatory and pain medications she was walking gingerly in the first few days; had her stitches out by the second week, and began swimming in her bathtub at home as a form of non-weight bearing physical therapy. Within 6 weeks Pretzel was flying across rooms again, taking couches in a single bound, and dispensing crazy doggie kisses to all comers.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced

Heartworm

Dr Mc Blog

March 24, 2015
Moonshadow gently waved his tail from side to side, tongue pink as he greeted us. The older black lab moved with a stately grace across the exam room, a gentle cough escaping from his throat. “There, did you hear that? Why is he coughing like that?”, his owner queried anxiously. I stared down at him, mind running through possibilities. Moonshadow was old, so I had to put cancer on the list. Not a happy place to start. I said nothing as I began a full exam, checking out his teeth, moving over areas where lymph nodes lurked, probing his tummy, riffling through his fur. Moonshadow cooperated with everything, seeming to enjoy it all as one big petting fest. I pulled out my stethoscope and listened carefully to his chest, timing his heart rate and listening to his lungs expand and contract with each breath. A lot of times you don’t hear much listening to healthy lungs, maybe a quiet whoosh. Today I was hearing crackles and rales, sort of like Rice Krispy cereal when you first pour the milk on. Not a good thing to hear. I stood up from the floor where I’d been kneeling at Moonshadow’s side. He side-swiped me with a lick of appreciation, then coughed gently with the extra effort. His owner, in her late twenties, shifted from foot to foot anxiously. “We’ve been through so much together. He’s travelled across the country with me.” Her voice trailed off, tears threatening. Her dog walked over to her and pushed his head up under her hand.

I asked to run a blood panel and take a set of chest x-rays. The x-rays would show me any masses in his chest that could be cancerous or might point to an odd disease like the fungal infection Valley Fever. I could evaluate his heart size and shape and find markers for other lung diseases. The bloodwork would check for signs of infection, diabetes, thyroid disorders and see if his liver and kidneys were functioning ok. Not much point in making a diagnosis of one problem and later finding out that my patient’s renal function was toast. Obtaining a complete picture up front was in the best interests of my patient so I could help him – or know that I couldn’t, should that be the case.

One of the blood tests was for Heartworm, Dirofilaria immitis, a long spaghetti-like worm that lives in the blood stream, bobbing around through little capillaries and veins as larvae until they eventually grow up and take up residence in the lungs and heart. There can a fistful of worms clogging the heart. Nothing microscopic about it – unfortunately, the patient is usually dead when you get to see it that graphically.

Heartworm goes through one of its life stages in the mosquito. It is when the mosquito bites your dog, sucking out a bit of blood (the mosquito’s meal) that it injects the microscopic larval form of Dirofilaria into your pets’ bloodstream. If you give your dog the heartworm preventative EACH MONTH it kills off all first-stage larvae encountered and the story ends there. If your dog isn’t protected by a heartworm preventative, or you forget to give it for a couple weeks (even if you re-start it and get back on track), then there is a window of opportunity for the first-stage larvae to grow on to the second stage and into the adult worms living in the chest. The whole process from mosquito bite to worms clogging the lungs and heart can take up to 2 years. The symptoms your pet shows may range from something mild like restless sleeping to wheezing to full out coughing and heart failure.

Todays’ tests are very sophisticated, requiring only a few drops of blood to detect antigen, the bodies’ response to invasion by a foreign invader, in this case the heart worm. If your dog does test positive for heartworm, a second test is done to look for actual microfilaria larvae circulating in the blood, which helps stage the disease progression and predict the prognosis for your pets chances of beating this disease.

Is there a treatment for dogs that have heartworm? Yes, an injectable form of arsenic. Can some dogs die from the treatment or get very sick from it? Yes. Does the treatment work 100% all the time? No. Once a dog has had heartworm and been successfully treated do its lungs go back to normal? It depends. Sometimes. Can cats get heartworm? Yes, statistically 5-10% as often as the dogs in a given area of California.

In February 2015 there were two (2) cases of heartworm diagnosed in local dogs : a little Yorkie in Merced and a medium sized dog that lives in Atwater. Both are house pets and neither has ever travelled outside of town. For years we have known that pets that travel to the foothills, such as Mariposa or Sonora, are at very high risk; also the Delta area of Stockton. Most of the United States is infiltrated, so ALL travelling dogs and cats should be on monthly preventative. Heartworm is HERE in Merced County. Most dogs can be protected for less than $100 a year. Talk to your veterinarian about the best choices for your pet and family.

And Moonshadow? He tolerated the arsenic treatments. His lungs were permanently damaged and he needed medicine for the rest of his life to keep the post-heartworm immune reaction under control. He was a dog that appreciated everything done for him and gave another two years of love to all he met in his journey through life.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
drmc@mcmenagerie.com
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced

 

 

Foxtails

Dr Mc Blog

 

March 10, 2015
At home I mark the seasons by watching the ever changing flowers along our roadsides and gracing our gardens. Spring brings the first forsythia flowers of bright yellow sunshine, the pink and white magnolia blossoms. At work I am waiting for the veterinary equivalent of that first harbinger of spring, the foxtail weed sticker.

It’s coming, that moment when I look at the chart of my next patient and read “cause for visit : foxtail in ear”.

The foxtail is the seed head of several weedy grasses. Sometimes called wild barley, several different grasses produce an awn or sticker that is pointed and barbed like a miniature badminton birdie. As your dog or cat brushes through the tall grasses the foxtail will catch in their fur, working in deeper by means of the pointed base.  Foxtails burrow deeply wherever they enter, travelling in one direction, prevented from backing out or falling out by their bushy tail.

The most common sites for foxtails to lodge in a pet are the ear and between the toes. The eyes, nose and vulva are also vulnerable, though foxtails can burrow into the skin anywhere, especially in thickly furred or matted animals.

Not only are the burrowing weeds painful, they can cause serious infections and abscesses wherever they enter the body. The sticker does not break down inside. It’s pointed end can burrow through ear drums, into eyeballs and travel up legs from the toes. Unless removed, a foxtail can eventually lead to death. Foxtails breathed into the nose can lodge there and run the risk of being inhaled into the lungs if not promptly removed. Foxtails eaten may escape the stomach and tunnel through the internal organs. Foxtails can kill.

Although you can’t always prevent contact between your pet and a foxtail, you can decrease the risk by taking the following steps :

  1. Don’t let your pet run through grassy fields or empty lots filled with weeds.
  2. Brush your pet after a trip outdoors, paying special attention to the face and feet. Gently separate each toe to look for tiny tan stickers between the feet.
  3. Pets with short, slick coats are not immune to picking up a foxtail, but there’s no denying that long silky hair or “feathers”, found in dogs like the Spaniel breeds or Golden Retrievers, attract the stickers. Thick, curly coats – think Poodles or Chow Chows – can also be foxtail magnets. These breeds may do better if their lower legs, toes and underbelly are trimmed short for the summer. A dog groomer can do this safely and easily for you. A “Summer Strip” that shears a long-haired dogs’ coat to an overall length of about ½ inch helps protect heavily coated dogs from picking up the stickers, with the added bonus of cooling your pet off during our hot summers.
  4. If possible, remove all weeds from your yard in the very early, green stage. Mow the weeds down, rake up and dispose. It is the dried seed head, in its bid to reproduce and spread far and wide, that detaches from the mother plant and hitches a ride on your pet to be carried to new fields. Elimination in the green stage is far easier to control and prevents further dispersal of seed heads. Foxtails are not readily air borne, but once dry “jump” off the plant onto whatever brushes against them.

Signs that might lead you to suspect that your pet has encountered a foxtail might include the following, especially if just after a walk or run :

  1. Your pet suddenly holds an ear down, shakes or rubs his head vigorously, crying out if you touch the ear.
  2. Repeated bursts of paroxysmal sneezing, so hard it looks like her nose might hit the floor.
  3. An ugly swelling between the toes, limping on one or more feet.

Most foxtails must be probed for and removed under anesthesia. Those lodged in the ear offer the sporting chance that, moving quickly enough, one can grab the offending sticker and be done with it. It’s the closest we come to a rodeo in small animal medicine. Given that the ear is awfully close to the teeth there can be a bit of a rush as the veterinarian eyes his or her prospective patient, calculating the odds of success.

Hmmm, the moment is here.” Check ears, foxtail”. The first patient this spring? A Newfoundland, the sort of dog that ought to live at the North Pole where there are no foxtails, and pick on someone his own size, like a polar bear. This dog looks to be about 150 pounds and growing by the second. Probably eats vets like they’re cheetos. And judging by his head tilt and red ear, it hurts, BAD.

We try the calm, business-as-usual approach. Let’s take a little peek here…. Nope. Next the hold-on-to-him, person on each end approach. Uhn-uh. Three people try to restrain his head. Help! Finally, a moment of stillness and we’ve got it! Quickly a quarter inch foxtail is extracted from the ear. Everyone takes a collective breath. The ear is cleaned and medicated. The Newfie is delighted, giving us doggie high fives with his nose which knock us into the wall. We all beam at each other. Success is sweet today. We know there will be more foxtail challenges tomorrow.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
drmc@mcmenagerie.com
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced

Fleas Part Two : Is Zero Tolerance Possible?

Dr Mc Blog

September 14, 2014
In my previous column on fleas we discussed the mode of action and the suffering and disease which fleas inflict upon dogs, cats, and occasionally people.  I stated that the tapeworm of dogs, Diplydium caninum, did not infect people. Dr. Jerry Menefee of Los Banos called to tell me how much he enjoyed my column and to gently correct me: there have been a few cases of human infestation with the dog tapeworm, called Diplydiasis, primarily when a young child or infant has actually eaten an infected flea (same as the dog or cat) and the worm develops in their intestine. There is rarely any sign of illness, just little tapeworm segments passing in the diaper! Treament for the child is the same as used for the dog, with excellent success. I could find 2 medical papers printed on separate cases, one published in 1993, another in 2003. Diplydiasis appears to be extremely rare (but oh dear, aren’t you running to check the calendar to see if you’re up to date on your flea control?); I shall expose the mysteries of “human tapeworm”, an entirely different group of worms, in a future column. Today we are exploring methods of flea prevention, critical in our area because, as noted in Part One, our local climate favors fleas – we are a flea hospitality haven!

If a pest has been around this long, there’s been plenty of time to try to get rid of it. Because some pets and people seem to attract more than their fair share of attention and get more bites, researchers tried changing the way skin smells. As it turns out, fleas are NOT put off by garlic or B vitamins, nor are they scared away by clove oil, tea tree oil, cinnamon, lemon, etc. Whether ingested or applied topically, these products only make you or your pet less socially acceptable to other like creatures. Not recommended. It has been theorized that some dogs and cats are better able to groom out fleas with their teeth, so appear to be flea free and escape the ugly monikker “fleabag”.

So we’re talking pesticides to control pests. Thirty years ago we used flea powders, sprays and flea collars, all powered by chemicals in the carbamate and organophosphate family of pesticides. This group of chemicals were not at all selective to fleas – used improperly, they could poison your pet and you. It’s what we had (our “zero”), and we were desperate. The collars worked sometimes on very small pets, since they only covered the neck. Powders would do the job, if you could stand the dust all over your pets’ coat. Sprays were very effective, but required near daily application because as soon as your dog rolled in the grass they were lost in the dew. Forget spraying a cat- one puff and that cat was in the next county. Dips were also effective, though again, none lasted two weeks as dogs roll in the grass…..removing the substance. Most flea dips were toxic to cats, so if applied incorrectly to a cat it would die unless emergency treatment was sought. I spent hours counselling on time consuming methods of flea control that no one thanked me for.

Pest control companies were kept busy spraying yards and houses in an effort to control the flea in the environment. One product, malathion, a mainstay in pest control years ago, to overcome flea resistance had to be sprayed over your entire yard every 10 days to have any efficacy at all according to UC Davis! DIY (do-it-yourself) friendly, it was not. Again, clients were grumpy to receive this news. Today there are a rotating group of pesticides used by pest control companies to fight the flea and prevent resistant strains from developing. Environmental control in the yard is very important; even if your own pet never leaves home, wildlife and roaming pets will almost certainly introduce fleas. Your pet does not live in a bubble!

And then a new generation of medications were discovered. Wonderstuff. Applied topically to the skin of the pets neck or given as a chewey pill, and only ONCE a month, this stuff is amazing! This stuff works! Several products exist for both dogs and cats, all kill fleas within 12 hours of contact with the pet. Reinfesting fleas, flea eggs and larvae in the environment are killed following contact with the treated dog or cat. If you do no environmental control, expect it to take about 90 days to clean up your flea problem. Some of the chemical names we’ll discuss are imidacloprid, spinosad, fipronil and afoxolaner. Ahhh, what’s in a name? Tongue twisters all – the brand names are easier. Curiously, most of these products weren’t developed specifically for your pet.

Spinosad is a pesticide developed to safeguard our food supply, used commercially on fruit and vegetable crops. Spinosad is considered an “organic” insecticide found in a bacteria from sugar cane. Spinosad is considered a natural product, given a Class B designation for pregnant women: No evidence of risk in humans.  It is used on people in medication for human head lice. On dogs and cats it has been found effective primarily against only the flea.

Imidacloprid, another flea fighter available for dogs and cats, is also used on crops and home back yards. Acting as a neurotoxin to insects, when used IN THE YARD, it is a systemic chemical that is taken up by plant roots to its leaves, where sucking/chewing insects will ingest it and die. There has been some question if imidacloprid may adversely affect honeybees (colony collapse disorder), though bees do NOT chew flower or plant parts.

Fipronil is an insecticide that affects the nervous system of insects via pathways that don’t exist in mammals. A broad spectrum insecticide, it is highly toxic to fish and bees. It is widely used for protection of rice crops, field corn, and golf course lawn care. Humans can prevent tick bites by applying it (as directed) to their ankles and wrists. Fipronil can kill rabbits – do NOT use on rabbits for flea control! That said, for years the State of Hawaii has required the veterinarian-only application of Fipronil, specifically, to all dogs and cats 10 days prior to travelling to the state. Fipronil has been widely questioned in honeybee colony collapse disorder.

Afoxolaner is in the newest class of chemical, this one without apparent crop/plant use. It’s sole use is flea AND tick control in dogs. It’s a new isoxazoline parasiticide (I had to read that, why not you?) – its’ claim to fame is that it controls both fleas and ticks via an oral medication for an entire month. Tick control has always been difficult in dogs, and there are many serious tick-borne diseases. The class of isoxazaline drugs may be a breakthrough for livestock that suffer from both ticks and tick borne diseases worldwide.

The flea is here to stay. With considered use of the available products you may be able to control you and your pets’ exposure to fleas and the consequences of flea bites. We aren’t talking eradication. You are not expected to reach Zero.  As for your children, your home and yard, the truth is that flea control on the pet is not deemed of sufficient quantity to add to or create environmental issues at this time. Most of the products we’ve discussed are carried home from Garden Centers and Big Box stores by the quart and gallon weekly as yard and grass treatment for indiscriminate use and disposal by the homeowner. These products all appear much safer for mammals – you, your children, your dogs and cats – than previous options, and every year newer products are developed as we all cope to care for each other and our earth.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced
drmc@mcmenagerie.com

The Flea and Zero Tolerance : Part One

 

Dr Mc Blog

September 7, 2014
One of the more curious things worth pondering is the realization that “zero” is only as low as your ability to measure something, any given parameter, to zero. How much of a given substance is found in your food, how much radioactive activity persists in the ground, how fast a ball flies from the pitchers hand is all measured by a variety of instruments created by man and only as accurate as the instrument currently in use. As technology advances we are able to detect smaller amounts, faster movement, ever tinier invisible particles – and our previously accepted “zero level” decreases accordingly. Fascinating!

Enter the flea, ctenocephalides felis, the common flea of both dogs and cats despite its’ Latin name. The flea has been with us for centuries. A small wing-less creature, it can safely be described as a parasite to most of us, if we accept the definition of parasite to be an organism that exploits or lives off another organism while contributing nothing to its wellbeing. Why do we care what this little insect gets up to in its daily life?

For starters, fleas rarely appear to be doing good deeds. Once an adult flea has pounced upon a dog or cat, it will feast upon its blood (blood meal). In very small, young, or very ill pets enough fleas can together literally suck them dry of their lifeblood, leading to severe flea anemia and death.

While taking that blood meal, the flea actually injects its mouthpart or proboscis into your pets’ flesh which also introduces its saliva. Not only does your pet feel little flea feet crawling all over its skin, it can feel the sting of the bite and worse, develop an allergic reaction to the flea saliva, which will make him itch and break out in a rash. The ultimate reaction is a pet so allergic that they scratch off their hair, their skin, and develop oozing, painful sores called “hot spots”. Medical attention is required to get these under control quickly. Your veterinarian can literally start turning this condition around in hours! Hot spot and other allergy medication does not take days or weeks to work!

Which came first, the flea or the tapeworm egg? In a twist of fate, the tapeworm egg of Diplydium caninum lays on the ground or carpet. A flea larvae MUST eat it for the tapeworm to continue to develop. So the flea larvae eats the tapeworm egg. When the flea bites your pet, the tapeworm larvae is spit out on their coat. Your dog or cat turns to lick at the stinging flea bite and ingests the tapeworm larvae, which is swallowed and grows up inside your pet to become long ribbons of worm segments looped together in the intestine. Often these live segments break apart and are passed in pet feces. You may literally see wiggling flat worms (proglottids to you science types) in pet droppings or even around your pets’ tail. Once dried, they may look like rice or dried sesame seeds. They do not pass daily, so if left untreated don’t be fooled that they’ve naturally gone away if you don’t see them for a week or two. They’re still there.

Ok, so far we’ve discussed fleas on cats and dogs :
anemia, even death;
creepy crawly flea feet running on them;
allergies, hot spots;
tapeworms.

What about people?Some people are bitten by fleas. The bites can be painful, and may cause an allergic skin reaction. The kind of tapeworm, Diplydium caninum, that dogs and cats carry is NOT the tapeworm you hear people can get (they must eat a flea to get this kind of tapeworm – highly uncommon).

But there IS a zoonotic (spread from animals to people) infection fleas CAN transmit: murine typhus, a rickettsial bacteria that may be harbored in feral or pet cats, opposums, and other animals. Murine typhus is an under-discussed suburban vector-borne zoonotic  disease. In the United States California, Texas and Hawaii have had outbreaks. In California, the southern areas of the state are vulnerable. Orange County reported two (2) cases of murine typhus in 2012. When one case was reported in a young girl the county trapped feral cats and opposums near her elementary school searching for the probable source of contagion.  This disease usually responds well to antibiotics and people are easily cured. However, it is uncommon and initial diagnosis can be difficult. The primary recommendation to decrease the risk of murine typhus? 1) Do not feed feral or wild animals near your home. 2) Apply flea prevention/control products to your pets.

Which brings us to the crux of this article. How to prevent fleas on your pets, in your home, on you? Because if you live in Merced County, we provide everything a flea needs to flourish with our long seasons of warm weather and mild winters. We are a flea hospitality haven! Please tune in for Fleas: Part Two : Searching for Ground Zero

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
Valley Animal Hospital, Merced
drmc@mcmenagerie.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mange / Demodecosis

Dr Mc Blog

 

August 27, 2014
People love the word “mange”. “He’s just a mangey old alley cat” someone will say. Used as a description for a pet with scruffy fur or unsightly skin, most people don’t realize that mange is a group of very specific skin diseases caused by parasitic mites. There are different sorts of mites, all possessing eight legs and often only visible under a microscope. There are two kinds that commonly affect the dog.

Sarcoptic mange is caused by an ugly little mite, sarcotes scabei, that burrows into the skin of both dogs and people. Often called “scabies”, it is feared primarily because of its transmission both from dogs to people and between people. Excellent treatment protocols are available for this disease.

Demodex or demodectic mange is an entirely different skin disease. First, it is NOT contagious to other pets or people. Second, the demodex canis mite burrows very deeply into the hair follicles of the skin and is sometimes harder to treat than sarcoptic mange. Puppies contract it while nursing from their mothers (strange but true). There is some thought of either an inherited predisposition or a depressed immune system allowing the pups to express the disease visually, as not all pups in a litter may be affected. When first seen, a puppy may display only a bare patch around one eye. It’s not painful and doesn’t itch, but usually looks so unsightly that it causes immediate alarm. Often the mite doesn’t show up until the pup is over six months of age, which confounded scientists trying to understand the connection between exposure and disease expression for years. For some puppies the disease can be far worse than an unsightly bald patch. The entire body may lose hair in a case of generalized demodecosis, with scabs and sores erupting as a secondary bacterial infection kicks in. Edema and swelling of the face and feet are common, making a pup truly miserable. These puppies are extremely ill, their immune system is gravely compromised and some may die.

Because the skin can only react in a limited number of ways to any disease, signs of hair loss, open sores and itching can be caused by a variety of problems : other parasites, allergies, staph and other bacterial infections, fungal infections. A veterinarian needs to examine your pet to make the correct diagnosis. A skin scraping is diagnostic for demodex- but not always for sarcoptes. A sharp blade is used to literally scrape any potential mites off the skin and the slide is examined under the microscope. Positives are slides that wiggle back at you!

Fortunately, there are several treatment options available for demodectic mange. Thirty years ago a breakthrough dip was discovered, which revolutionized the old “cover ‘em in tar” treatment. Today that dip is less frequently used as new oral and topical medications have been developed, which when combined with antibiotics and medicated shampoo treatment protocols have greatly improved the cure rate for this disease. Once treated, dogs are cured of demodex, though if allowed to breed there is a strong risk they will pass it on to some of their offspring.

Perhaps my most memorable suspect demodex case occurred a few years back. The young German Shorthair Pointer presented with some hair loss around her muzzle. The skin scraping was negative, so I started a fungal culture for ringworm. Cultures take about two weeks to run their course. When the ringworm culture was negative, the Pointer returned for a recheck. The lesions were spreading, red sores and deep cracks tracing from the bridge of her nose down the sides of her face and lips. The rash was especially bad just below her eyes, though her eyelids were surprisingly clear, the skin untouched by disease. The rest of her coat remained beautiful. I again did a skin scraping, and when negative, repeated the test. Negative. Convinced as I was that this must be demodex, I told the owner that we would start therapy immediately before this could spread further.

When I next saw the dog she was the picture of health. Her face was completely clear, new hair growing in on smooth skin. I glowed. Success is wonderful. It was the client, of course, who set me straight. A bachelor who did most of his own cooking, and not too elaborate, thank you, he frequently fixed up a can of beans. Seems the Pointer liked beans too, straight from the can. He caught her burying her nose in deep to reach that last drop.  Her face cleared up as soon as he found another disposal system for the cans. My antibiotics probably helped the secondary infection but there was no denying that my years of training had let me down. The medical texts on mange variations do not mention bean-can-itis.

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
drmc@mcmenagerie.com

Rabies

Dr Mc Blog

May 29th, 2014

I’m going to talk about something scary today. Not an alien life form but a very real live virus called rabies. Rabies didn’t die out with Old Yeller – it is still very much with us, and definitely present in the wildlife of Merced County. In fact, Merced is considered an endemic area for the disease. We have positive cases every year! In the 30 plus years I have lived and worked here, I have watched both the Public Health Department and Animal Control cooperate to monitor Rabies positive cases turned in to the County. They map where the rabid animals were discovered, watching for “hot spots” of possible contagion in the wildlife. Positive rabid bats and skunks have been identified, often after a dog or cat has carried it into the house or killed it. But what about the animals that just quietly die in the wild, that may be carriers of the disease? This, of course, is how it is spread. Consider: Rabies virus enters the body through a direct bite or contact with the mucous membranes (eyes, mouth, nose). Once there, it slowly spreads into the nervous system, eventually reaching the brain. There is NO CURE for the disease at this point. In fact, only because the virus multiplies and spreads so slowly is it possible for post-exposure immunization to work and save human lives. Rabies is diagnosed after the brain of the suspect animal has been inspected. There is no way to diagnose the disease in a living patient.

California is considered to have a high incidence of cases – over 400 cases in wildlife reported annually. Skunks and bats are the most frequent wildlife involved, but other carnivores such as  raccoons, foxes, coyotes and bobcats are often positive.

Each year one or two cases of human rabies is reported in the United States. Since 2002, 21 of 24 reported human rabies cases in the US were linked to bats, per the Center for Disease Control (CDC). July 24, 2013 a young girl was bitten by a rabid bat at the Oakland Zoo- it was not an exhibit animal, just local wildlife. She received post-exposure immunization and is fine. Easter in Bakersfield, California of 2012 was grim for the family whose pet cat bit their child, after itself contracting rabies from area bats. In June, 2011 an 8 year old girl from Willow Creek, California actually survived the disease after intensive treatment at UC Davis’s Childrens Hospital. She is only the third person in the US to survive rabies without receiving the post-bite immunizations. Most people die or become vegetables. In countries where vaccination vigilance is not as high as the United States, rabies is a serious threat : 60,000 people die from this entirely preventable disease every year! Three “islands” are isolated enough to have no rabies : Hawaii, England and Australia. Travelling with pets to these places is a complicated process as they strive to remain rabies free, protecting people and their indigenous or native wildlife from sure death.

Because wildlife cannot be vaccinated against Rabies, your FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE is to vaccinate your pets, the carnivores at highest risk of coming in contact with wildlife. ALL DOGS and CATS should be vaccinated against rabies. And you should never approach wildlife, especially when they seem sick.

If your dog or cat is bitten by a bat or suspect carnivore that isn’t available for brain examination it is presumed exposed to a rabid animal. If the bat or skunk is confirmed positive and rabid and the dog or cat is NOT current with rabies vaccination protection it may be recommended that it be immediately destroyed. If the pet is current on vaccination, by law it will still be isolated for anywhere from 10 days to 6 months, depending on the individual circumstances of the case.

If a human is bitten, whether it be a pet or a stray dog or cat, or any wildlife, it should immediately be reported to a physician. If the animal is available, it will be quarantined or its’ brain will be examined to check for rabies. The type of bite, animal involved, vaccination history and other factors will determine the recommendations made by your physician and public health authorities.

This is where your money for those darned rabies licenses go. This is what it’s all about. The message : Vaccinate your pets against rabies. It’s the law – and it’s a good one!

Christine B. McFadden, DVM
ValleyAnimalHospital
drmc@mcmenagerie.com